In our series, Changemakers, we interview people who have shifted their work to focus on sustainable and ethical issues. We ask what inspired them to make the leap and what their biggest successes and challenges have been along the way.
Aishwarya Lahariya is a textile scientist turned designer who left the world of material innovation to build something radically different. Today she co-leads Jiwya, a 100% plant-based fashion and lifestyle brand born in Nashik, India. It is built from the belief that clothing should not pollute the planet, harm animals, or compromise the health of the people who make or wear it. As such, Jiwya has created a ‘soil-to-soil’ supply chain and works with generational artisans across India to bring heritage textile arts back into modern fashion.
When did you launch Jiwya, and why?
Aishwarya Lahariya: I began working on the idea in July 2022 and officially launched Jiwya in October 2023. It was borne from a very simple, but not easy, goal – to create the cleanest possible fashion supply chain. Something as basic as clothing should not be a source of pollution to the planet or to human health.
Tell us what Jiwya does in your own words
At Jiwya, we create textiles for the eco-chic consumer who values handmade detail and the conscious nature of a product. We use 100% plant-based materials, for everything from the fibre to the dyes and we incorporate heritage textile arts from generational grassroot clusters across India. We believe no product should pollute the planet, harm animals or harm the maker and wearer. This is the foundation of every product at Jiwya.
What does a typical day look like for you?
I wish every day was typical but I enjoy the novelty and learning that come with building a planet-first and people-first business. Some days I am fully immersed in designing and shut off from the world so that my creativity stays as original as possible. Other days I am fighting fires, problem solving, or strategising.
Almost every day I am with the production team, making sure each piece receives the attention to detail it deserves. I move between design, production, operations, marketing, social media and anything creative.
My co-founder handles the supply chain, logistics, financial work, administration and business development. During summers you will find both of us in the lab, dyeing yarns in plant colours for the year and enjoying new experiments.
Outside work, I love managing a low-to-zero-waste household. I compost, garden and learn new ways to avoid plastics at home.
What were you doing before this?
I am a textile scientist, so I worked across a variety of technical product areas from bioresorbable medical textiles to green chemistry finishes. My role immediately before Jiwya was BioFluff, a plant-based fur start-up that I co-founded. My career was much more technical than it is now and far removed from fashion.
What did you love about your previous work? What did not sit right with you?
I truly loved all of it. I chose roles where I could make a difference with my expertise. But, what did not sit right was the feeling that it still was not enough.
With my background in textile chemistry and research, I was constantly aware of how bad the state of conventional fashion is. Making conscious choices in my personal life did not feel enough. Trying to help clean up a dirty industry through the roles I took also did not feel enough. That is when I decided to quit and lead by example.
Was there a lightbulb moment that led you to change your path?
I have always been someone who uses resources carefully. When I moved to the USA, I saw how easily people took everything for granted. Endless paper use, lights left running all the time, food wasted as if we had another planet full of resources. During this period, my own efforts to conserve and live sustainably doubled. I kept asking myself what I buy, when I buy it, where it comes from and where it will go. Naturally that thinking transcended into my work. It was only a matter of time.
What challenges did you face when starting your business?
I had to rethink the typical business structure entirely. My co-founder and I spent a lot of time studying business models and wondering why they never accounted for waste or pollution created in the process.
As such, Jiwya became a completely different business model to a typical fashion one. Jiwya manufactures everything in-house. Fabrics and raw materials are verified by visiting the homes and workshops of over 150+ artisans throughout India multiple times to build personal, lasting relationships. This close connection ensures every metre of fabric is made with care and respect for the workers.
Naturally, the journey was uphill and still is. One example is something as simple as finding stitching thread without polyester, it was a surprisingly difficult challenge.
Have there been any “I cannot believe this is happening” moments along the way?
I think that moment is still to come because I believe we are here to stir a much bigger conversation about fashion. But, our debut at London Fashion Week, a first for 100% plant-based fashion, was a big moment. Being listed as a partner with the United Nations Fashion and Lifestyle Network was also big.
What do sustainability and ethics mean to you personally and professionally?
It is more than what I do for Jiwya. I lead a low-waste life, composting food waste, buying locally, taking containers to refill groceries, reducing plastics, recycling everything I can. My town, like most in India, does not have segregated waste picking services so finding dedicated recycling centres is an extra step that has become part of my lifestyle.
Being a chemist and scientist adds yet another layer. I am careful about removing toxic substances from my life. I think about who I buy from, what I buy, where it will go and whether I even need it. It allows me to put money in the right places.
Why was this important to you from the start?
Material focus came from my work as a textile scientist. I have actively tried to remove harmful materials from products in every job before Jiwya. That never felt enough.
The social impact side grew when my co-founder and I travelled across India and saw the state of textile arts and the need to put them on the global map for the craftsmanship they carry. We witnessed the result of decades of de-valuing. There is a difference between skilled worker and an artisans of generational art – the previous has mastered a skill to work in a certain field; the latter has loved, learnt, practiced and improved an art through legacy learning and brain memory that is unparalleled. At Jiwya, working with artisans is a privilege and an opportunity to preserve generational arts that have stood the test of time for centuries.
What is next for you and Jiwya?
We are positioning Jiwya in stores that resonate with our values and where consumers can experience the products in person.
What kind of support or collaboration are you currently seeking?
We are seeking promoters. We would love to collaborate with physical stores who want to sell better products and people who would like to make a statement wearing 100% plant-based fashion, appreciating the luxury it is today.
What message would you like to share with others building ethical or sustainable businesses – or thinking about it?
Just start and perfect it on the way. Be kind to yourself because this journey is tougher than conventional businesses. Laugh about the smaller mistakes, it helps you to avoid the bigger ones.
Oh, and do not punch down at fellow sustainable or trying-to-be sustainable businesses. We are all imperfectly trying to be perfect.
Interview with Aishwarya Lahariya, Co-founder of Jiwya.
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